154 Leyland won't start

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Ley154
Posts: 96
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:22 am
Location: Gloucestershire UK
Great Britain

Re: 154 Leyland won't start

Post by Ley154 » Thu May 21, 2020 11:55 am

Hi again. Its going to be difficult to give you short answers as I don't know the depth of your knowledge on engines, 154 mechanicals , DPA pumps and there isn't enough space here to cover everything. I do hope you have read the workshop manual and looked at all the diagrams as a start.
Taking each point as you laid them out: I hope you put grease on the end of the drill to catch the bits of heater plug assuming you have't removed the head. It's not uncommon for the tip to fall into the pre-combustion chamber as you are drilling. If you are lucky it will get blown out through the exhaust valve otherwise it will likely get jammed into the top of the piston. Fingers crossed! Replacement heater plugs tend to be 12 volt and are supplied as the correct replacement for the Champion AG39 which they are not quite. If you now have 12 volt plugs you need to delete the 9 volt ballast resistor and relay system or jump the resistor at least to get 12 volts to the plugs.
Which earth bolt? The one on the short braid from the end cap on the starter to the block or the one on the end of the battery lead itself which should be through the dash support bracket into the steering box? Either way that's frightening - very bad connection or someone has changed to a small cable or something in the starter is trying to go dead short. There are too many unknowns without having the tractor in front of me.
In that little hole in the end cap on the pump there should be a tiny roll pin. This pin locates the transfer pump cam ring in the correct position ( there is a notch in it for the pin to go into. ) See photos. People who are unaware of this often fit the end cap without checking the pin has entered the notch ( having rotated the cam ring to the correct position) and as the 4 bolts are tightened by someone who can't feel that things are wrong it can push the pin out through the back of the casting making a hole which sounds like what you have.
Forgot the black plastic tube - the only place this is normally used is for the drain returns from each injector and then to the top of the filter housing. Its fine to replace this with rubber. All other fuel lines are normally steel tube ( imperial 1/4 or 3/16 ) so perhaps others have been changed by previous owners? John Poulter.
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Jamie in Norway
Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2018 9:14 am
Norway

Re: 154 Leyland won't start

Post by Jamie in Norway » Thu May 21, 2020 3:16 pm

Hi and thanks for taking the time out to describe and answering my questions in detail.

Yes I did replace the old Champion AG39 glow plugs with new 12v plugs so I'll look into jumping ballast resistor and relay system. When drilling out and removed the relevant injectors and then sucked the part that fell in with a vacuum. I heard the bit getting sucked out both times. Must check the bag to see if they are actually in there. Thanks for the reminder :)

I was a bit rushed with describing the cable its actual the black negative cable from the battery to the block. Its the bolt on the block that glows red. Time to call a friend with a multi -meter and track down the fault.

It would seem I am the culprit for pushing out the roll-pin on the end cap. Hoping I can repair this or order another part.

The replacement of the plastic pipes was easy.

Im not a mechanic and clearly learning by burning.

Jamie in Norway
Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2018 9:14 am
Norway

Re: 154 Leyland won't start

Post by Jamie in Norway » Fri May 22, 2020 12:43 pm

Hi again,

I wonder if anyone could check if I am on the right track. I've been trying to locate the "9 volt ballast resistor and relay system". Have a correctly located them?


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Ley154
Posts: 96
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:22 am
Location: Gloucestershire UK
Great Britain

Re: 154 Leyland won't start

Post by Ley154 » Fri May 22, 2020 4:58 pm

Hi, yes that's the resistor. The quickest way to get the 12v to the plugs is to take the two wires from one of the terminals on the resistor and put them onto the other terminal making 4 on one terminal. That's it. Personally I remove the resistor and the relay and connect the heater wire from the switch ( brown/red ) directly to the plugs. When I want to do a really good job I fit a heavy duty relay into the circuit and just use the switched wire to operate the relay but then I often make my own looms and incorporate a bank of fuses as well.
Re: the battery leads. I have attached a couple of photos of the standard layout so you can compare it with your tractor. The main battery cable photo is on a Mini but it's the same. The other picture shows the short braided earth lead which is connected to the end cover of the starter motor and one of the sump flange bolts.
Regards John Poulter.
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Jamie in Norway
Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2018 9:14 am
Norway

Re: 154 Leyland won't start

Post by Jamie in Norway » Sat May 23, 2020 6:07 pm

Hi John,

Thanks again for taking time out and mentoring me though getting my tractor running again.

This morning it started and ran.

I can see from the pictures you supplied that there’s is no earth from the starter motor. This I will sort out.

On another matter and maybe this is in the manual however I haven’t seen it in yet. What’s the best way to go about adjusting the anti-Stall devise?

Also. The motor is running at a very high revs. Is this to do with the position of the anti stall device?

Jamie in Norway
Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2018 9:14 am
Norway

Re: 154 Leyland won't start

Post by Jamie in Norway » Sat May 23, 2020 8:00 pm

The over reving has stopped now. I adjusted the anti stall device and it had no noticeable effect on the revs.

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